20100204 Epilogue for Angel Voyage

20100204 Epilogue

After a week back on land, perspective on the Voyage of Dark Haired Angel is clear.  I have not slept well since arriving back in Charleston.  I miss the gentle motion of the V-berth and the coolness of the boat’s interior.  I also miss the physical regimen of hauling anchor and sheets for the sails; as well as wrestling with the tiller to keep Angel on course in confused seas. I especially enjoyed all of this. 

Most of all, I miss being with Cathy continuously and working toward a common goal.  I am convinced; this is the basis of successful long term relationships.  We now have to set new goals, with measurable milestones and schedules for the second half of our lives together.

I am very proud that we traveled aboard a 48 year old sailboat for ~2,000 miles during our 10 week adventure, most at 5-6 knots often under sail, using the motor when necessary.  The boat performed well both mechanically and under sail.  The electrical problems encountered on our 1^st day out of Charleston were traced to the only wiring NOT replaced during the refit.  The AC shore power lines were not marine grade multi strand & tinned copper wire, but instead consisted of house, single strand wires.  One of these single strand wires had fatigued with the motion of the boat and broken, arced and took out the circuit breaker and charging fuses.   Replacing these shore power wires will take top priority for repair.  The genoa luff (following edge of the roller furling genoa) came unstitched during the heavy winds encountered on the way home and also needs repair at a sail loft.

Overall, this was basically a 10 week camping trip.  The cabin was lit with kerosene lamps, cooking over a 2 burner propane stove,   refrigeration only when in port, sleeping in cooler weather, in a sleeping bag.  We ate well, creating new, simple dishes with pasta or rice and cans of butter, cheese, chicken, turkey, beef and pork brought from home;   adding fresh vegetables, eggs, fruit and bread along the way.  Delicious meals shared in exotic places are important memories for us.  We brought back two big plastic totes of canned and dry foods, which have overfilled our pantry.  Cathy & I will reminisce over boat meals at home, well into the future.

We used less than 20 pounds of propane during the trip for cooking & heating.  I am amazed by how little we consumed.  We did not try to conserve propane at all, lighting up the burners whenever we needed a hot cup of tea or a little warmth to chase off the chill of winter. 

The images of wildlife, star formations, rising and setting suns (some preserved as digital images) will remain with us a long time. 

There are many that I need to thank for making the trip possible and comfortable.  In no particular order, many thanks go to:

1)       John Sr., John Jr. and Marilyn Jordan, who allowed me a leave of absence from ems and encouraged us to have a great adventure.  Their understanding, during my father’s physical deterioration over the last two years and especially, during his illness and passing, was beyond  compassionate. 

2)      John Jr. donated two fishing rods and reels.

3)      Don Hacker donated an old tank of propane, with obsolete valve fittings that fit the ancient heater and old propane stove.

4)      Walter Spalviero created a new suite of clothes for Angel, consisting of dodger, bimini, sail cover and stern shade, which not only dressed up the old girl, but also served us well to protect us during inclement weather.

5)      Local cruisers Walter, Chris, Jay and Lance from the Harborage at Ashley Marina provided much advice, through many discussions on where to go and how to get there and what to take, based on their experience in the Bahamas.

6)      My father, William S. Tucker, Sr. provided the spark and inspiration for adventures over the horizon, with his stories as a 17 year old US Navy volunteer in WWII.  I am especially fond of his trip, sponsored by the US Navy in 1944, driving Higgin’s (landing craft) boats up the Intercoastal Waterway from the training facility in Ft. Pierce, Florida to Norfolk, VA, preparing for the allied invasion of Japan.  Thankfully, this never occurred.

7)      Most of all, I want to thank my lovely wife Cathy.  I had no doubt that she would enjoy the tropical paradises, but did not know her response to more difficult times.  This adventure is WAY outside of her comfort level.  Roughing it for Cathy was previously defined as staying at a Super8 hotel.   Giving up home comforts…her blow drier, heated mattress pad and whirlpool bathtub for a couple of months were a big sacrifice.  In retrospect, I can now better appreciate her trust, confidence, courage and efforts.  I again realize how much I value her willingness to explore and experience the world with me, sometimes in uncomfortable situations, which stretch both of us physically, mentally and emotionally.  This Bahamas voyage will be added to Germany, Panama Canal, Bermuda, Key West, New Orleans, Banff, Tahiti, Anchorage Curacao…non-sailing vacations.  We need to buy a bigger memory card for our video picture frames to hold all the digital pics

It has been my hope that the readers of this blog should share our experiences, both good and otherwise.  The great times were many, the hard times few; but we learned from both.  Cathy and I need to rebuild our sailing kitty, make repairs to Angel, take weekend coastal sailing trips and make plans for the future together.  Our adventures with each other out into the world continue…stay tuned.

Take care & travel safely,

Jim

20100127 Fenwick Island and Charleston

20100127 Fenwick Island and Charleston I intended to travel from Hilton Head Harbortown and make passage 60 miles to Jehossee Island, which on the chart is just off of the ICW and has a good anchorage. Jehossee Island was one of the first rice plantations in SC in the mid 1800’s. Jehossee was owned by William Aiken, Jr., the largest landowner and largest slaveholder in SC. After service as SC’s governor, he served representing SC in Washington, DC and traveled worldwide, until the onset of the Civil War. William Aiken and his wife, Henrietta bought and remodeled a house on Elizabeth Street in the historic Wraggsboro section in Charleston. Their home is now called the Aiken – Rhett house and is a historic home owned by the Historic Charleston Foundation and can be visited and toured. Since volunteering as a docent in the Aiken-Rhett house 10 years ago, I have always wanted to visit and tour Jehossee. Jehossee was passed down in the family and most recently was owned by the Maybank family, which donated it to the state of SC. The island is now a nature preserve with restricted access. After leaving Hilton Head Harbortown early, I motored onward and northward on the ICW. The trip was cool, but uneventful in the strong wind even though the gusts raised to gale force. The incoming tide, wind and waves were from the south and generally helped push Angel along her way. Gradually, the speed increased from 4 knots to 7.5 knots. Progress was good all morning as clouds gave way to sunshine and a little warmth on my face. The winds and waves made this a wet ride, especially through Port Royal Sound as I passed by Paris Island, SC. The way north, winding along the ICW through the salt marshes at ~5 knots is interesting and beautiful. Moving along slowly, following the ICW markers and occaisionally looking ahead on the chart, leaves plenty of time to observe and appreciate the nature all around. Dolphins, Pelicans, Sea gulls, Cormaran, etc. entertain. Twisted and tortured driftwood stand guard and salute Angel’s passing. As I approached Beaufort, SC around 12:10pm, rounding the salt marsh peninsular opposite of the Beaufort waterfront, I hailed the Lady Island bridge and asked for passage during their 12:30pm opening. The bridge operator informed me that the schedule had changed, and from was closed from noon until 1pm. With no options, I circled and waited for the opening. Each minute passing delayed my arrival in Jehossee Island until later and later in the day. During the delay, I decided to have lunch. Vienna sausages and sardines on saltine crackers. From the boat cockpit, I am restricted in my movements while underway. My lunch was prepared, but I had no utensils. Searching around, I found the perfect implement to remove Vienna sausages from the can…needle nose pliars! One by one, and neatly , I removed and enjoyed my lunch, chasing it with a cold Crystal Light. Perfect. The 45 minute delay pushed my arrival at Jehossee Island past the end of the day… beyond sunset, forcing me to find another and closer anchorage. Five miles and one hour closer lay Fenwick Island with a large open anchorage. I arrived, surveyed my options and dropped the hook in 8 feet of water with plenty of scope, allowing for swing for the changing winds from the west and northwest. Backing down hard, I was confident that the faithful Delta with chain would hold Angel in the gale force winds as they diminished to calm overnight. The night in the Fenwick Island anchorage was cold, began bumpy as Angel danced in the winds, but calmed by 10pm. I enjoyed a hot dinner of Spamburgers as I reviewed my last leg back to Charleston. With propane heater blazing, I crawled into bed around 8pm and soon was asleep. I slept soundly and awoke with the top of my head chilled. The propane heater had cut off during the night and the outside temperature of 30F was now also the inside temperature. Dressing quickly in my warmest clean clothes and a new Smartwool socks, I prepared hot tea and got to my tasks to prepare to travel. At first glance outside, I thought fog had lowered over the anchorage, but then realized it was frost on the INSIDE of the portholes. Emerging from the cabin to the cockpit, I discovered a calm anchorage. The water was a calm, not a whisper of wind disturbing the mirror. The sun had not yet risen, but the brightening sky was doubled by the reflection all around. With 45 miles to go, I was up and away before the sun peaked above the horizon. An hour later, I passed by the Jehossee Island anchorage, pledging to return. Winding my way against tide, slowed my progress to 3.4 knots until low tide passed just before noon. The subsequent rising tide raised the speed home to 7.2 knots, making up for lost time. The incoming tide was at full flow as I passed through Elliot Cut, just 5 miles south of Charleston harbor. I arrived at the Wapoo Creek bridge just in time for the 2:30pm opening. It was then just a short hop under the James Island Connector bridge, emerging into the Ashley River anchorage just across from the City Marina. I arrived at the Harborage at Ashley Marina, waiting at the fuel dock for the tidal current to slow. Cathy met me at the dock and we began to unload Angel, freeing her from the burden of excess canned food, clean and dirty clothes. We took three totes to the car, then with the help of friends at the marina, with Cathy on the bow, we moved Angel back to her home in slip I-6. On the way home, we stopped at Kingstreet Grill for a burger and diet Coke. Gloriously delicious. By the time I arrived home and had a hot shower, I was ready for my first night in a bed that did not pitch, yaw or roll. With the heated mattress pad on high, Cathy and I both were dreaming of new adventures soon. We awoke at 5am and could not go back to sleep, so we arose, made To Do lists. 1) A major cleaning trip back to Angel to prepare her for her well deserved winter’s rest. 2) Replace the leaking kitchen faucet. 3) Grocery run 4) Bank run 5) West Marine – new deck brush It is good to be home. Jim & Cathy

20100125 Cattle Pen Creek and Hilton Head Harbortown

20100125  Cattle Pen Creek and Hilton Head Harbortown

Windy and cloudy weather greeted Angel in her departure from Jekyll Island, GA.  With a falling tide helping to push her onward, progress was good at 7.4 knots.  This increased to 8.7 knots when the genoa sail was set upon reaching the open waters of St Simons Sound.  This was a wet run, with spray coming over the bow and washing back to the cockpit.  Turning up the MacKay River to follow the ICW, the now rising tide continues to aid in our progress.  The wind is gusting out of the cloudy skys to >25 knots.  The sail was furled during narrow passages to ensure Angel did not get blown into the reeds and shoals that line the many cuts of the ICW. 

With a good 60 miles under her keel, Angel sought refuge in Cattle Pen Creek.  This small tributary at mile marker 625 of the ICW, provides some protection from ICW traffic, but little protection from wind.  I set the faithful Delta anchor in 15 feet of water with 100 feet of chain, pulling back hard in reverse to ensure it digs into the creek bed.  I placed the anchor on the south edge of the creek so the gusting southeastern winds with push Angel along the creek axis.  I also picked a site that left a crab pot float about 100 feet behind Angel.  Throughout the night, as I woke every hour or so, I shined a spotlight on the float and both creek banks to make sure Angel was safely positioned.

At 7am, with the sun not yet peaking over the horizon, I prepared to leave.  A hot pot of tea prepared me to hoist anchor, exit the creek and motor onward.  I progressed every northward, soon entering St Catherines Sound.  I again set the genoa sail and achieved > 8 knots in the open water.  A particularly strong gust of wind pulled at the sail during the end of this sail.  This gust freed the hem on the luff of the sail.  Soon it expanded from 6 inches to 6 feet.  I re-rolled the sail to prevent further damage and will have to have it re-stitched after reaching Charleston.    

Onward under motor alone, my pace slowed to 5-6 knots.  I reached Calibogue Sound, just past Dafuskie Island, on the west side of Hilton Head Island.  Turning to starboard, I headed toward the familiar channel markers around the entrance to Harbortown, the first stop on our journey 10 weeks ago.  As I entered the channel, the 4 foot waves smoothed to ripples, but the wind was only diminished marginally.  Harbortown Yacht Basin answered the hail on the VHF radio immediately and asked that I head to the inner harbor, slip 6.  Meeting me there were two dock hands that made quick work to secure Angel to the dock cleats.  This was a great choice for a slip, since the prevailing wind blew Angel away from the finger dock, making for a restful night.

After I connected to electrical service, opened the sea cock for the heater, and set the thermostat to 75F, I headed to the showers with clean clothes and cash for dinner at the Crazy Crab.  Clean and hungry, I chose a seat at the end of the deserted bar.  In addition to a delicious seafood platter, a second sailor chose a seat two placed down the bar.  I learned that he was a delivery captain, taking a 40 footer from Wilmington, NC to Stuart, FL.  I shared my experiences coming up the ICW, with favored anchorages and marinas.  He reciprocated with his favorites northbound.  After a couple of beers, he told of his “real job” as captain of the Downeast Rover, a gaff rigged sailboat in Manteo, NC.  (see downeastrover.com)  This seasonal position, March-October, allows him to travel and do deliveries in the winter months. 

My quick dinner plans evolved into a two hour leisurely meal with lots of great discussion.  Overall, a great end to a hard day.

At 6am, I awoke, prepared hot tea, dressed in my warm foul weather gear and got to work.  I filled the fuel tank from the 4 X 5 gallon jerry cans.  Organized all lines and disconnected electrical service.  At 7:30am, I flagged down the dock hands upon arrival and they were happy to help with dock lines, as a strong wind was still blowing from the south.  Angel backed into the marina channel, then shifted into forward gear, turned a circle before exiting to the ICW. 

Jim  

20100123 Fernandina Beach, FL and Jekyll Island, GA

20100123 Fernandina Beach, FL and Jekyll Island, GA After the storms experienced in St. Augustine, FL, I anticipated smooth sailing northward on Friday. I found that a ziplock bag of animal crackers that was under the dodger, was taken by the storm winds. The bag had disappeared, but the animal crackers were spread everywhere! When I moved a cushion or turned off the propane or moved the hatch cover, a horse, elephant, rhino or giraffe was found melting into mush. I am still finding animals in the nooks and crannies around the cockpit. On Friday morning, I left Camachee Cove Yacht Basin with no wind, making departure from the slip and into the ICW simple just after 7:30am. A following wind from the southwest built throughout the morning allowing motor sailing with speeds up to 7.8 knots. The sun came out allowing me to shed the foul weather gear. Overall, it began as a beautiful day. At 1pm, things changed dramatically. The wind clocked around to the northwest and north, maintaining a wind speed of 10+ knots. A HEAVY fog settled in as well, often obscuring the ICW channel, mandating following the electronic path on the gps, until the channel markers appeared out of the mist 100 feet ahead. I expected the wind to fall off, but it did not. Angel’s speed dropped from 7.8 to less than 4 knots. Progress slowed. I only met 2 southbound vessels. One was a 40 foot sailboat, the other a 42 foot cabin cruiser. Both were proceeding slowly due to limited visibility. From 1pm until I arrived in Fernandina Beach, FL after 5:30pm, the passage was slow and exhausting with limited visibility. I just missed the Fernandina Beach Marina the dock master, so I took a mooring buoy across from the marina. I tied Angel with double bow lines, since the currents are reported to be severe in the anchorage. For dinner, I prepared a delicious chicken and rice dish. I took the liquid from a can of chicken chunks + the liquid from a can of diced tomatoes (garlic and onion flavor, added water to make the proper ratio and cooked the rice until tender. I then added the chicken and tomatoes to the cooked rice and heated these thoroughly. Salt and pepper to taste…really hit the spot. With the temperature dropping, I attended to the propane heater, which has been shutting off overnight. I found the propane regulator needed adjustment to maintain a higher pressure. With the propane heater on high, I climbed into a sleeping bag and was soon asleep…until… I was awakened around 2am by a rap, rap, rapping, gently tapping on the starboard side. I looked out the portholes, but saw no vessels. I lay down again. And again, rap, rap rapping, gentle tapping was heard. I climbed out of the nice warm sleeping bag and dressed. Going on-deck, I looked over the starboard side to find that the wind and current were fighting each other for domination on the direction that Angel should lie at the mooring. At this moment, the wind had pushed the stern to the west, but the current kept the bow east of the mooring ball, which was tapping against the side of the boat, just at the v-berth, where I was sleeping. I took the lines and pulled the mooring ball around the bow to the port side. I climbed back into bed. Again ½ hour later, the tapping resumed, this times on the port side. I rose, dressed and adjusted the tiller from straight to hard starboard, swinging the stern to port and eliminating the problem. Next morning just after sunrise, I went started the engine, then went forward to cast off the mooring. I found that the mooring lines had twisted around the mooring ball overnight, making it impossible for me to access one of the two knots holding us. With no other option, I reached over the side and had to cut the line to free Angel. I anticipated a short day to go from Fernandina Beach, FL to Jekyll Island, FL; only 32 miles. At 6 knots, a hot lunch was in the offering. I did not have my hot lunch. Soon after leaving Fernandina Beach, I entered Cumberland Sound to find 4-6 foot waves entering from the ocean, with an incoming tide. Angel’s speed slowed to 2-3 knots. Heading ever northward, getting behind Cumberland Island, offered some protection from the waves, but not the wind. 20 knots right on Angel’s nose keep speeds to 3.5 knots. Things worsened after passing Cumberland Island and entering Jekyll Sound. The now outgoing tide and 6-8 foot waves made the passage miserable with the up and down motion of a bucking bronco, waves and spray often washing over the bow back to the cockpit. A whole roll of toilet paper unrolled onto the floor of the head due to the motion. Jekyll Sound is ~2 miles across. It took me over 2 hours to find some refuge behind Jekyll Island. My noon arrival at Jekyll Island Marina was pushed back to after 3pm. After securing fuel and a slip for the evening, I took clean clothes up the showers and stood under the hot water in the showers until it ran cold. At least I can feel my toes again. I am planning a great dinner at the restaurant, my first cheeseburger and fries in a couple of months. Right now, I have the boat heater set to 75F and am drying clothes and foul weather gear. I soon will listen to the weather report and decide to go or stay another day in Jekyll Island. Jim

20100121 Up the Ditch to St. Augustine

20100121  Up the Ditch to St. Augustine

Cathy is representing us at her parents 60^th anniversary, so on Sunday, 20100117, we rented a car and she drove back to Mt. Pleasant.  Her highlights were getting back to her own bathtub, bed and seeing her beautician on Monday.  Wednesday, she flew up to the frozen northlands (near Columbus, OH) to spend the rest of the week with her family.  Also a highlight for Cathy.

I stayed with Angel in Ft. Pierce, took a final hot shower on Sunday evening, cooked a big pot of chili, and prepared to leave early Monday morning.  Using a long spring line to a mooring pole behind Angel in her slip, I backed out slowly and when the nose cleared the slip, the spring line tightened and swung the stern to port, placing Angel in the narrow channel between docks.  Moving the transmission to forward, and quickly retrieving the spring line, we were off for a day of motoring northbound. 

Ft. Pierce is at the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) at mile marker 966.  Charleston is ICW mm 466.  I have 500 miles to travel at 5 knots.  This will take 8-9 days, weather permitting.  On Monday, 20100118, I traveled past Melborne, FL, anchoring in the lee of the approach to an automotive bridge at ICW mm 910.  Again, the Delta anchor and chain provided a good hold and great night’s sleep.  Starting early with an outside and inside temperature on 44F on Tuesday 20100119, we continued northbound.  Up the Indian River and Mosquito Coast, to New Smyrna Beach @ mm 845.  I found an anchorage among some mooring balls, south of the city.   The 65 miles progress is gratifying, but the weather forecast is deteriorating. 

To pass the time, I counted dolphin as I passed them in the ICW.  These totaled 89 during the 65 miles.  In addition, there we hundreds of pelicans and thousands of other sea birds to entertain me during my passage.  The weather warmed to 67 F, allowing me to shed the foul weather gear, back to shirt sleeves.  I slept well in the anchorage…too well.

I overslept, the warmth of the sleeping bag kept me comfortable until 7:30.  Hauling the anchor at 7:45am, I traveled north through New Smyrna Beach harbor meeting no other water traffic, making the 7:20 opening of the George Musson Bridge, with just a 5 minute wait.  My next challenge was late in the day.  After hustling all day to make bridges and keep my speed up, I reached Matanzas Inlet and Rattlesnake shoals at low tide, around 4:40pm.  This is where Angel ran hard aground during the southbound journey.  This time, using the local knowledge gained from Tow Boat US last in November, keeping Angel close to the west/red markers and slowing my speed for the 1.5 miles around the shoaling at the inlet.  IT WORKED!  I continued on, pushing to find an anchorage before sunset at 6:11pm. 

I reached Butler Beach and rounded the marker, slowing speed to ease into the branch.  Since it was now just after low tide, the sandbar here is a real hazard.  I dropped anchor at 5:50pm and prepared dinner, then going to bed early.  I was awakened at 2am by an unusual bump.  Jumping up and out into the cockpit.  I noted that my anchor was still where I set it, however, Angel had swung around on the tide and wind and was now hard aground on the sand bar.  As the morning darkness progressed, Angel heeled over on the falling tide.  At daybreak, she was laying on her starboard side with the rail in the water.  I was walking on the starboard wall to get around.   She ended up heeled over at 45 degrees! 

At 8:00am, I called Tow Boat US, requesting a tow for 11:00am at high tide.  As the tide came in, Angel righted herself and was just barely aground when Captain James arrived.  A quick pull with his tow rope pulled Angel to deep water.  He warned of impending severe weather in St Augustine, just 5 miles north.  I decided NOT to challenge mother nature, and after navigating the St. Augustine harbor, it’s tricky currents and construction barges, I pulled into the Camanchee Cove Yacht Basin and got a face dock slip at 2pm.  At 2:30pm, a hail storm hit, followed by a severe thunderstorm with torrents of rain and winds that I learned later were gusting to 60 mph.  A 30 foot cedar tree on the grounds was split and uprooted by the storm.    I was safely docked and cleaning up Angel, including discarding the rest of the chili.  It seems that at room temperature, a froth developed and LOTS of new flavors, seldom experienced in chili.  Over the side it went.  During a lull, I went up and got a shower, then stopped by the Kingfish Grill for a late lunch. 

Tomorrow, I hope to almost get out of Florida.

Jim

20100116 Back in the US…Back in the US…Back in the USA

20100116 Back in the US…Back in the US…Back in the USA The passage from Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island to Ft. Pierce mirrored our other overnight passages during our adventure. Up early, we bathed, ate and at 8am, I walked up to the dock office at the Grand Bahama Yacht Harbour to settle our bill. The day was beautiful, with high scattered clouds above bright sunlit skies. Casting off, we backed slowly out of our slip and headed across the waterway to Port Lucaya Yacht Club, since GBYH still did not have fuel. We were the first customer at Port Lucaya, where the high flow gas pumps develop vapor lock overnight. The fuel flows, but slowly. This is preferred by Angel, since the tortuous path from the fuel fill opening through the tank is easily overwhelmed by high flows. We enjoyed the morning, while the 20 gallons needed for Angel slowly and without attention, filled her tank. Fully fueled, secured and ready for sea, we motored out of the Bell Channel around 9am, turning starboard at the buoy, paralleling the beach, headed west. Passing Freeport Harbor, we had to swing wide to avoid shipping traffic, but mused at the activity of the pilot boat and two tugs that emerged from the harbor entrance to help the freighter ESC Adrian to the docks. At Xanadu, the south western corner of Grand Bahama Island, we turned northwest, slanting every westward toward the gulf stream, heading toward home. After 5 hours we passed West End, Grand Bahama Island. The water became every more blue. All this time the winds were fair, pushing us on a broad reach, then beam reach to a healthy speed of 5.7 knots. After another 2 hours, I spied the sail of an oncoming vessel emerging over the horizon in front of us. This sailboat passed to our starboard and I hailed her. The good ship “Scarlett” was only 7 hours out of West Palm Beach. Later we heard her hail the Old Bahama Marina in West End, arriving around 3pm. After some quick calculations, we found that Scarlett had made the 82 nautical mile transit in just 8 hours, averaging over 10 knots for the entire trip! We are SOOOOOO… envious. In doubling our speed, she arrived with crew relatively rested and could easily complete her passages in smaller weather windows. Cathy and I discussed at length the advantages of fast cruisers for hours. At dusk the winds clocked around to the east, pushing us onward; however, they shifted before 9pm, hitting us on our nose, and the sails had to be stored. We motored onward toward the gulf stream and I noticed that the ocean swell was from the east-south-east helping us as well. With practice, I could control the angle of attack of the wave on our stern and Angel surfed down the face of the wave gaining speed. It was common for us to accelerate form 5 to 8.5 knots during the downhill slide. Through the night, I tried to maintain course, but traveling in a direction, even a few degrees in contrast to the increasing swell would dramatically swing the stern one way or the other off course. I then had to fight with the tiller to move us back on course before the next wave set a few seconds later. Since the waves were 6-8 feet in size, this swing was accompanied by stomach churning lifting and then drop with the radical sideways movement. It reminded me of riding a Tilt-O-Whirl at the fair. Cathy went below to secure herself and check that our stuff was tied down. At the apex of the fair ride, in the gulf stream at mid-night, we reached a speed of 10.9 knots. This shortened our trip, but only at a cost of energy and mental focus. It only took a few seconds of inattention to start the ride anew. One wave caught us and after passing, had taken the 35 foot, 12,000 pound sailboat and spun her 180 degrees, so briefly, we were headed back to the Bahamas. Of special note were the flying fish in the Atlantic Ocean. Before dusk, they launched themselves from the wave tops, cruising on fragile fin-wings for 30 yards or more, before reentering the water with hardly a splash. After dark, moonbeams and navigation lights revealed brief glimpses of silvery glints as the fish took flight. One wayward flyer, around 1am, launched himself skyward and as I sat in the cockpit, steering Angel, the fish hit me in the forehead! An inch lower and my eye would have been at risk. Both he and I fell stunned to the floor of the cockpit. I survived. He was transported to the US laying on top of the port side scupper. Onward we traveled and it became evident to me, we would arrive early, beating our 6am arrival in Ft. Pierce, FL. At 2:45am, I called Cathy to join me in the cockpit to help decipher the navigation lights of the Ft. Pierce Channel. Together, Cathy with flashlight, binoculars and chart, with me at the tiller, we motored onward, leaving the swell in the ocean as we moved into the channel, finding the intercoastal waterway, where we had passed by 6 weeks ago. We cruised by the marina, where we planned to stay, hoping to tie up at the fuel dock for a few hours, but the channel was unlighted, so we reversed course, finding a good anchorage at 5am in 10 feet of water just off the ICW, ½ mile away. I slept in the cockpit in my foul weather gear on anchor watch. Cathy dozed below. At 7am, we rose, ate and had hot tea to boost our energy level and spirits. We called the marina and were invited to come on in for fuel and a slip. With 20 gallons of gas on-board and secured in our slip, we spent the day showering, resting, capped off with a dinner out in Ft. Pierce. Both Cathy and I are exhausted. I am sore and stiff, but after 24 hours, the leg and hand cramps from the all night tug-of-war with the tiller, are diminishing. Today, we will rent a car for Cathy to drive back to Charleston. Her parents are celebrating their 60 year anniversary next week and she will attend. I will take Angel back to Charleston via the ICW over the next week or so. Cathy and Jim

20100113 Last Day in the Bahamas – News from USA

20100113 Last Day in the Bahamas – News from USA

In preparation to make the long passage across the gulf stream back into US waters, I checked my voice mail for the first time in 8 weeks.  Not too bad.  I was especially excited about birthday wishes from Steven Lowenstein & Johanna Orndorff of Cincinnati, OH.  In addition to the happy birthday message from these good friends, they informed me that my ex-wife’s (Barbara A. Cain, DDS) current husband, Kevin O’Brien is in the news in Cincinnati.  A quick Google search revealed a series of news articles and websites.  

It is well known that my ex-wife and I have an acrimonious divorce.  Kevin was an apparently successful, stock broker until summer 2008, when he left his employer to start a “Wealth Management” consulting company.   I thought it was unusual at the time, but to each his own.  From the news stories, it appears that Kevin has been accused of misappropriation of client’s funds and has permanently relinquished his stock broker’s license.  Last November, he ran and was elected as an Andersen Township Trustee, with no mention of the alleged impropriety.  Now, the details have become VERY public and there appears to be a vocal movement to “encourage” Kevin to resign.    For more information see http://www.obrienmustresign.com/

I have been thinking about Kevin & Barb, since I got the Google results.  It is very disturbing to me.  I suspect that the change in income since 2008 is dramatic, resulting in the sale of their RV (motor home), classic refurbished Mustang, and classic refurbished 450 SL Mercedes.  Even their new home, built just a couple of years ago, still does not have floor coverings in any but the master bedroom.  Now the publicity and fight to retain the Township Trustee post has turned into a legal fight.  I cannot imagine the conversations around the dinner table.

We all make our own decisions and create situations that affect us individually and those around us.  This is a situation to learn from.   I will have lots of time to think about this during our passage home tomorrow.

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The weather forecast remains favorable for our passage tomorrow.  Cathy and I went out for a final meal, again enjoying Greek food.  We have been discussing our triumphs and inconveniences experienced during the past couple of months. 

Angel is much more functional and livable now than two months ago.  Stored supplies, clothing and equipment is conveniently accessible.  Deck leaks, experienced during ocean passages from penetration of the chain plates to strong attachment points on the hull.  The shrouds (wires) that hold up the mast are attached to these.  All chain plates leak.  Ours leak most in ocean spray when the mast sways and flexes the attachment points.  The moisture that comes on board goes through hanging lockers finds it way downward and stains the teak floor.  This is a minor inconvenience.  We open the locker doors in port and ventilate and (to date) have avoided mildew.  All of our clothes stay safe and dry in plastic “Space” bags.

Cathy has re-re-reorganized our kitchen and food.   Cathy inventoried all the food, separated out the duplicates, then kept some of everything in convenient cupboards, which were placed in deep storage under the V-berth.  She moved our canned butter and cheese from kitchen storage next to the engine, where these melt due the engine heat.  Meals are easily planned, prepared and cleaned up.  Our tanks easily store and provide 3 weeks of water for our use. 

The rebuilt engine has performed beyond expectations.  It sips fuel at a rate of ~1 gallon per hour at 1800 rpm.   The 25 gallon tank allows easily for overnight passages.  The spin-on fuel filter is replaced after each ocean passage, when ocean swells agitate the fuel in the ancient tank, stirring up sediment which is taken up into the fuel stream.  The good news is that the sediment is being removed and the filters are inexpensive insurance.  Other systems installed over the last 3 years, have also worked well.  The new sails, HVAC, icebox refrigeration conversion, conversion of the alcohol stove to propane, bilge pumps (2), sea water pump for rinsing dirty dishes, wind generator and 2^nd battery bank have served us well. 

Some things on Angel will be changed.  We will upgrade our 110 V electrical wiring (original) to marine grade wire and connectors.  We have plans to simplify clothing, tools and food.  We carry at least twice as much as we need.  I will change our rail storage system to allow more convenient fender board access to protect the rub rails at fixed dock slips.  (In Staniel Cay, when the fender slipped away, a dock piling “grabbed” the teak rub rail, removing an 18” section in an event that sounded like a shotgun blast.)   I am a rope nut and have saved every scrap of somewhere in a locker.  These will be retired to some good boy scout troop for knot practice.  Angel’s lines will be uniform and standardized for quick access.  Cathy had a hard time getting onto fixed docks at low tide.  In some instances, the dock was literally above her head as she stood on the deck of the boat.  She valiantly stood on shaky life jacket bags and propane tanks to get ashore.  We have a policy of “No Swimming at the Dock”, which has not been violated.

Well, tomorrow morning, we will fill Angel with fuel and head out through the Bell Channel, out of Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island and make the turn to starboard headed back to the US.  This will be a 15-24 hour passage, depending on wind and weather.  We look forward to being home, but dread the all-nighter to get just to Ft. Pierce, Florida, 104 nautical miles away.  Hopefully, fair winds and minimum swell will help us on our journey.

Wish us luck,

Cathy and Jim