20100127 Fenwick Island and Charleston

20100127 Fenwick Island and Charleston I intended to travel from Hilton Head Harbortown and make passage 60 miles to Jehossee Island, which on the chart is just off of the ICW and has a good anchorage. Jehossee Island was one of the first rice plantations in SC in the mid 1800’s. Jehossee was owned by William Aiken, Jr., the largest landowner and largest slaveholder in SC. After service as SC’s governor, he served representing SC in Washington, DC and traveled worldwide, until the onset of the Civil War. William Aiken and his wife, Henrietta bought and remodeled a house on Elizabeth Street in the historic Wraggsboro section in Charleston. Their home is now called the Aiken – Rhett house and is a historic home owned by the Historic Charleston Foundation and can be visited and toured. Since volunteering as a docent in the Aiken-Rhett house 10 years ago, I have always wanted to visit and tour Jehossee. Jehossee was passed down in the family and most recently was owned by the Maybank family, which donated it to the state of SC. The island is now a nature preserve with restricted access. After leaving Hilton Head Harbortown early, I motored onward and northward on the ICW. The trip was cool, but uneventful in the strong wind even though the gusts raised to gale force. The incoming tide, wind and waves were from the south and generally helped push Angel along her way. Gradually, the speed increased from 4 knots to 7.5 knots. Progress was good all morning as clouds gave way to sunshine and a little warmth on my face. The winds and waves made this a wet ride, especially through Port Royal Sound as I passed by Paris Island, SC. The way north, winding along the ICW through the salt marshes at ~5 knots is interesting and beautiful. Moving along slowly, following the ICW markers and occaisionally looking ahead on the chart, leaves plenty of time to observe and appreciate the nature all around. Dolphins, Pelicans, Sea gulls, Cormaran, etc. entertain. Twisted and tortured driftwood stand guard and salute Angel’s passing. As I approached Beaufort, SC around 12:10pm, rounding the salt marsh peninsular opposite of the Beaufort waterfront, I hailed the Lady Island bridge and asked for passage during their 12:30pm opening. The bridge operator informed me that the schedule had changed, and from was closed from noon until 1pm. With no options, I circled and waited for the opening. Each minute passing delayed my arrival in Jehossee Island until later and later in the day. During the delay, I decided to have lunch. Vienna sausages and sardines on saltine crackers. From the boat cockpit, I am restricted in my movements while underway. My lunch was prepared, but I had no utensils. Searching around, I found the perfect implement to remove Vienna sausages from the can…needle nose pliars! One by one, and neatly , I removed and enjoyed my lunch, chasing it with a cold Crystal Light. Perfect. The 45 minute delay pushed my arrival at Jehossee Island past the end of the day… beyond sunset, forcing me to find another and closer anchorage. Five miles and one hour closer lay Fenwick Island with a large open anchorage. I arrived, surveyed my options and dropped the hook in 8 feet of water with plenty of scope, allowing for swing for the changing winds from the west and northwest. Backing down hard, I was confident that the faithful Delta with chain would hold Angel in the gale force winds as they diminished to calm overnight. The night in the Fenwick Island anchorage was cold, began bumpy as Angel danced in the winds, but calmed by 10pm. I enjoyed a hot dinner of Spamburgers as I reviewed my last leg back to Charleston. With propane heater blazing, I crawled into bed around 8pm and soon was asleep. I slept soundly and awoke with the top of my head chilled. The propane heater had cut off during the night and the outside temperature of 30F was now also the inside temperature. Dressing quickly in my warmest clean clothes and a new Smartwool socks, I prepared hot tea and got to my tasks to prepare to travel. At first glance outside, I thought fog had lowered over the anchorage, but then realized it was frost on the INSIDE of the portholes. Emerging from the cabin to the cockpit, I discovered a calm anchorage. The water was a calm, not a whisper of wind disturbing the mirror. The sun had not yet risen, but the brightening sky was doubled by the reflection all around. With 45 miles to go, I was up and away before the sun peaked above the horizon. An hour later, I passed by the Jehossee Island anchorage, pledging to return. Winding my way against tide, slowed my progress to 3.4 knots until low tide passed just before noon. The subsequent rising tide raised the speed home to 7.2 knots, making up for lost time. The incoming tide was at full flow as I passed through Elliot Cut, just 5 miles south of Charleston harbor. I arrived at the Wapoo Creek bridge just in time for the 2:30pm opening. It was then just a short hop under the James Island Connector bridge, emerging into the Ashley River anchorage just across from the City Marina. I arrived at the Harborage at Ashley Marina, waiting at the fuel dock for the tidal current to slow. Cathy met me at the dock and we began to unload Angel, freeing her from the burden of excess canned food, clean and dirty clothes. We took three totes to the car, then with the help of friends at the marina, with Cathy on the bow, we moved Angel back to her home in slip I-6. On the way home, we stopped at Kingstreet Grill for a burger and diet Coke. Gloriously delicious. By the time I arrived home and had a hot shower, I was ready for my first night in a bed that did not pitch, yaw or roll. With the heated mattress pad on high, Cathy and I both were dreaming of new adventures soon. We awoke at 5am and could not go back to sleep, so we arose, made To Do lists. 1) A major cleaning trip back to Angel to prepare her for her well deserved winter’s rest. 2) Replace the leaking kitchen faucet. 3) Grocery run 4) Bank run 5) West Marine – new deck brush It is good to be home. Jim & Cathy