20091122 Transit from Hilton Head Island, South Carolina to Jekyll Island, Georgia
“Angel” received 18 gallons of fuel and a new Intercoastal Waterway map book in Hilton Head Harbortown Yacht Basin. Our old map had many wrong marker numbers and locations. So under a sunny sky and with weak winds, shoved off from Harbortown headed south along the intercoastal waterway. “Angel” has the easy motion of a full keeled craft, with minor rolling and pitching as we made our way, green markers to the port and red markers to the starboard. We watched the GPS and depth sounder regularly as we motor-sailed southward. We passed countless birds diving and feeding in the calm waters. Pelicans were most amusing, gliding along inches from the water, then pitching skyward; followed by sudden dive for prey and crash into the water. In the afternoon, dolphins became our escorts, swimming in pods of 3 or 4 individuals in larger estuaries, sometimes breaching right next to the cockpit, but gone before our camera could react.
We proceeded southward from ~10am to 4:30pm, when we identified an anchorage in Red Bird Creek, about 40 miles south of Hilton Head. We motored up the creek past two other cruisers and anchored in ~10 feet of water with plenty of scope. A simple dinner of Spamburgers and canned corn, washed down with hot lemon tea, completed our work day. Sundown was at 5:50pm, so we put on a movie and watched “The Fifth Element” with Bruce Willis, but we were both tired and missed important parts of it.
Turning in, we planned an early departure. As this was our first night “on the hook”, I awoke several times and went outside to check that the anchor had not dragged. In the middle of the night, I sat in the cockpit for a few minutes and watched the crescent moon and stars, brighter without the light pollution of the city. In the morning, a simple breakfast; then as we emerged from below, we found our world fogged in. It seems that the weather front contained some clouds without the will or ability to fly. We decided to wait for better visibility before proceeding. The fog lifted somewhat and we left around 10:15am.
Retracing our track from Red Bird Creek to the intercoastal, we again headed south, green and red markers fell behind us and Cathy checked them off as we passed, confirming each number through the binoculars and calling out the numbers aloud. We both met northbound and fell in behind southbound waterway traffic along the way. Barges with earth moving equipment or cranes, cabin cruisers and occasionally a sailboat passed us going north.
Again, waterfowl and water creatures accompanied and entertained us. After another 40 miles or so, we found refuge in Tea Kettle Creek, anchoring in 15 feet of water. The wind had freshened dramatically, perhaps to 20 knots, and while anchoring, I lost control of the anchor chain, allowing more than 120 feet of 3/8” chain to escape from the locker. My wrist was scrapped a little by the event, and my fingers really tingled from vibrating along the chain as I tried to slow its run; but in hindsight, this was a good thing. During the night, our wind generator hummed and “Angel” swung back and forth on the anchor, but with each inspection during the night, all was well and the anchor held. I tried to secure mainsail, genoa and spinnaker halyards, but my efforts were unsuccessful. All night, they took turns slapping the mast, each with a different pitch and in turn reminded us the wind outside. Our motion inside was gentle, but disturbing in that we had no point of reference outside the portholes. Just salt marsh grass on two sides along the creek. Our view from the v-berth changed from creek to marsh to creek, but the wider view from the cockpit demonstrated our position just a pendulum swing, pivoting back-and-forth on the anchor chain.
Up early, we headed out of Tea Kettle creek this morning, again headed south; really more southeast. This is fortunate, since we had a north east wind, which pushed us along at 6.8 knots vs the usual 5.1 without an assist or 4.7 with the wind on our nose. Both days, Cathy used the binoculars to conduct an aquatic real estate guide of mansions & shacks along the waterway. Some are VERY impressive, with mega yachts out back, sport runabouts for fun tied up the swimming platforms along the waterway and tributaries.
As we traversed St. Simon’s Sound and made the turn at the north end of Jekyll Island, a strong rainstorm hit. We both commented how glad we were to have purchased foul weather gear just prior to our departure. The rain came down heavily, but did not impede our journey. We only had to slow to allow larger and faster shrimp boats to cross our path to get into their home ports. Taking Jekyll Creek along the western edge of Jekyll Island, we called ahead to reserve a slip and upon arrival around 1:30pm, wedged our way along the face dock, starboard side to, just inches from our dock mates. Short work was made to get “Angel” in order. Cathy concentrated on the interior, stripping the bed and getting the dirty clothes together. I secured the anchor chain, washed clean of creek mud by the rainstorm and re-stowed it into the chair locker though the hawse pipe. Arranging cushions to dry and hanging our jackets to air, we retrieved a dock cart, loaded in the laundry, towels and fresh clothes; and headed for the showers. Conveniently, attached to facilities was a restaurant, where we snacked and watched Sunday NFL football games after freshening ourselves, while the clothes were washed.
A short nap preceded dinner at Latitude 31, a local favorite eating spot. The dockhand gave us a ride to the restaurant, where we shared the most delicious crab bisque, spinach salad w/ hot bacon dressing and fresh seafood crepes’. We asked our waitress if there was a taxi service to get us back to the marina, but unfortunately there is not; so (unsolicited) she asked the kitchen staff, then the other patrons, if anyone could provide us a ride. We were introduced to Sharon and George, who are retired and living on Jekyll Island for 6 months. They were at the next table, and offered to provide transportation the 1.2 miles back to “Angel”. We must now pass this kindness forward at our earliest convenience.
Comedy at the Captain’s Expense
During our stay in Tea Kettle Creek, I awoke periodically during the night to check the anchor status. On these status checks, I would light the Force 10 Propane Heater, installed just before departure in Charleston. This trusted friend came from my old sailboat and lay unused in the garage since 1992. While a tight fit, the heater was hung on the door of the locker opposite the composting head. In Tea Kettle Creek, I arose, lit the heater; then checked the anchor from the cockpit. Returning, I made use of the head, and turning around, was closing the lid, when a gust of wind rolled the boat slightly. I stepped back and swear that I heard the sound of bacon hitting a red hot skillet. I realized quickly that this was my right buttock contacting the now red hot heater! Grabbing a towel, I bit down hard to fight the pain. I have not checked yet, but I think I have a permanent reminder of the trip…specifically the words “Force 10 Propane Heater” burned in mirror image on my right flank.
REFLECTIONS
With the world passing at 5 knots, there is plenty of time for contemplating people, places and events. During the Hilton Head to Jekyll Island transit, I thought long and hard about my Dad, who passed away August 14, 2009. In 1944, he joined the US Navy at age 18 and after basic training, went to Ft. Pierce, Florida and received training as a Higgs Boat pilot. Higgs Boats are landing craft used to deliver Marines and supplies to beaches during assault invasions. These pilots were prime targets from enemy shore batteries, since killing them disabled an entire platoon of Marines. After landing craft training, he and other pilots/mechanics rafted 8 craft together, then headed north along the same Intercoastal Waterway we are traveling; delivering the vessels in approximately two weeks to Norfolk, Virginia. There drove one and towed the rest until mechanical difficulties required shifting to another landing craft. They re-shuffled the group and continued on, daylight only up the “ditch”. In Norfolk, they loaded the landing craft onto transports and headed through the Panama Canal to the Pacific theatre for the invasion of Japan.
Fortunately, as the flotilla assembled in the Philippines, the atomic bombs were dropped over Hiroshima and Nagasaki, ending the war. My father was redirected & assigned to the security forces in Shanghai, China.
Monday, November 22, 2009, we explore Jekyll Island
Hot lemon tea started the day, it is comfortable inside “Angel”, but a little cool outside. The high today is 63, but with an ocean breeze, it chills quickly. I checked out a complementary bike from the Jekyll Harbor Marina. “Complementary” in this case defines an old one speed coaster with low tire pressure. Biking is definitely the way to see the island. I toured the historic area, then proceeded to the IGA to get some supplies, including fresh fruit & ginger snaps to supplement our afternoon tea. Back to the marina, I picked up Cathy and learned she had not ridden a bicycle in ….. well a long time. Hers was just as vintage and in as good repair as mine. We took them up to the bike path and headed toward the historic tours museum, arriving at 11:05am, just missing the 11am tour. Locking up the bikes, we walked around the historic area, Cathy shopping, while I waited outside. It was a pleasant, uneventful 2 hours that allow us to tour the Jekyll Island Hotel and grounds. We got back to the tour center for the 1pm guide. We loaded the train with 5 passengers and when tour guide, Phyllis arrived; she briskly had us disembark and get into a stretch golf cart. She has lived on the island for many years and gave a great tour, taking us not only along beside, but also into many of the cottages. She also gave us access to a cottage containing bronze and plaster sculptures, normally not on the tour.
Her final gift to us was the recommendation to go to Red Bug Pizza for a late lunch, where the Greek Salad and Pizza really hit the spot. Again, we were the only patrons. Overall, a great day.
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