Sunday, December 13, 2009

20091211 The Crossing from Ft. Lauderdale to Lucaya, Grand Bahama



20091211 The Crossing from Ft. Lauderdale to Lucaya, Grand Bahama  (CET Version)
The Crossing!  As you know Jim has written most of the blog.  I have typed some of it, but for the most part Jim has been the author.  I have been the photographer, the navigator and at time the nervous Nelly as we have proceeded from Charleston to Lucaya, Bahamas.   Jim has asked me to write about our crossing.  I think he wants to know if I want plane tickets for Christmas.
We left Bahia Mar Marina around 9:30 a.m. on December 10th with my seasick patch in place!  We only had one bridge to navigate through, which we were lucky enough to fit under without an opening, thanks to the bridge operator information!  We then proceeded to the Port of Everglades channel out of Fort Lauderdale and into the Atlantic Ocean.  My second visit to the Ocean in “Angel.”  Leaving we had to navigate around several large container ships coming in to port, fishing boats and many power boats going to the ocean to play.  We had very calm seas and a nice south wind.  We proceeded about 5 miles out and Jim slowed the boat and for the first time on our adventure, put both sails up on Angel.  She glided through the water with ease and grace.  We spent the day appreciating the beautiful blue water of the ocean, looking for sea life and watching the skylines of Ft. Lauderdale and Miami disappear.  Before we left I prepared some quick lunch and dinner items, fruit and water so it was within easy grasp.  We watched the sun go down around 5:30 to a beautiful sunset.  The ocean and winds were gentle.  We were waiting for the winds to turn from the south to the north as forecasted to get us to the correct course for our arrival in Lucaya around 10 a.m. on December 11th.   The weather man forecasted that the winds would change course around midnight to the north.  This would push Angel in a southerly direction to get us to the course direction we needed.  We checked our position using gps coordinates every two hours to ensure we were on track.  After the sun went down I watched the horizon for lights, as I am also the lookout for other water traffic, so we don’t get run over.  The clouds in the sky were big and white; however, the lightening in them should have been my first clue.  But the clouds were north of us and keep moving away, so I quietly calmed myself as all would be fine.  I got out our foul weather gear just in case, secretly hoping this would chase away all the weather.  I have to omit from 7 p.m. until all hell broke loose at 10 p.m., it was peaceful watching the stars above, picking out all the constellations, and watching many planes as the winked by us.  We took our last 2 hour reading at 10 p.m., finding we were close to where we needed to be and when the wind changed to the north it would push us to exactly where needed to be. 
Jim then asked me for his fleece and immediately changed to his foul weather coat as it was starting to rain.  And the adventure begins……!  I gave Jim his coat and put mine on hoping for a brief shower and we would continue sailing.  I am not exactly sure what happened between 10 and 10:05 p.m., but I do know that I never want it to happen again!  I was in the salon putting on my coat and before I could get up the steps to the cockpit, we went from calm seas to a howling northerly wind and 6-8 foot seas.   I have no doubt that I now know what it feels like to be in a washing machine, on high speed!   As I tried to take my seat, I was thrashed around and sat down.  I looked at Jim and he was busy trying to keep Angel on course.  We got that North wind the forecaster promised and much more he forgot to tell us about.  The north wind pushed Angel south, unfortunately a little too far.  At 10:30 Jim pulled in the Genoa sail to cut some of our speed and help with a little more control.   At mid-night it is not only raining, but pouring, Jim decided the main sail had to come down.  He started the engine and asked me to turn on the spreader lights that he fixed the day before (the picture of him on the mast).  Great that meant in this mess, I had to handle the tiller.  My least favorite thing to do on Angel is man the tiller and now I had to take over the tiller in 6-8 foot seas and not toss my husband off the boat as he secures the main sail.  I did this with my eyes CLOSED!  Don’t you think for a moment that I am kidding!  I was freaked.  Jim is taking down the main sail, let me remind you in 6 to 8 foot seas with strong winds and he is bare foot!  Ice is not as slippery as Angel’s deck when wet.  Man overboard is not in my vocabulary and my eyes are tightly shut holding on to the tiller – PRAYING! 
My eyes were shut a lot, I cannot pray with my eyes open.  I know Jim thought I was sleeping.  Not a chance.  Around 3 a.m. Jim said he needed to get some rest.  He then shows me his idea of auto pilot, tie a rope around the tiller and secure it to each side, turn the boat speed to idol and put it in neutral.  My job was to watch for lights and if any got close to wake him or if anything changed. My stomach could take no more and I chummed the fish, so they got to enjoy my first ever peanut butter and jelly sandwich.  I guess at least one fish wanted more.  This flying fish jumped aboard decided that Angel was a better place to be than in the sea.  I was not touching him, so he got a free trip to the Bahamas, if we could make it!  Around 7 a.m. it finally got light and now we can see the 6 to 8’ seas as they hit the boat.  But it is light! 
Jim continues to push us towards our destination of Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island, but it is a constant struggle.  We found the entrance to the channel for the marina we wanted and Jim radioed the Lucaya Yacht Club for a slip and we pulled safely in at 10 a.m.  Jim went and registered at the marina office and I got the immigration paperwork together and filled out.  I, as the crew, am not allowed off the boat until the Captain has checked us in according to the rules.  Jim put up our yellow quarantine flag, which has to fly until you have passed customs, and went up to the customs office.   We are finally in the Bahamas safe and sound!  Fixed docks (not floating docks) are not made for sail boats!  This is the 3rd or 4th marina that I can stand on the boat and the dock is almost over my head!  Off and on is pretty comical when you are 5’ and the dock is at eye level.   We named our boat correctly “Angel” watched over us all night and even though she was getting thrown around, she made sure we were safe. 

20091210   Passage to the Bahamas (JRT Version)
“It was the best of times…It was the worst of times…” best describes our transit from Ft. Lauderdale, across the Gulf Stream, to the Bahamas.   We decided that going to the northern Bahamas, with cooler water and weather is not for us, so from Ft. Lauderdale, we plotted a path from Port Everglades at 84 degrees heading (True) to Lucaya, Bahamas.  After resting, we planned short hops further south to the Exumas, saving the Abacos for the next trip.  Cathy has prepared peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and lots of cold drinks for the passage.  The weather report is excellent for the day passage, with a front moving in for the last couple of hours of the trip, which may make the arrival in the Bahamas a little uncomfortable, but the wind change will help us make the trip faster; or so I thought.
Casting off from our slip at the Bahia Mar Marina, we motored to the gas dock and filled up for the trip across the Gulf Stream.  The gas at Bahia Mar was the most expensive on the trip so far at $4.03 per gallon.  Turning south again in the ICW, we dodged water taxis, mega yachts, fishing charters, an incoming mail boat, a container ship and an incoming Princess passenger cruise ship to make it to the Port Everglades channel.  On the way, we encountered one bridge, but just missed the opening.  While the bridge had clearance of 50 feet on our chart,  the bridge operator noted that it was low tide, giving us 56 feet of clearance and just enough to sneak under without requiring an opening.  This saved us a half hour of circling in a busy water highway.
Moving out into the ocean, we found the predicted calm seas with 1 to 2 feet waves.  The sky was clear and as we moved away from shore, the warm wind freshened to 15 knots from the south.  I unfurled and set the 130% genoa from the cockpit easily, which heeled the boat to port slightly, but stabilized its motion.  Going forward with a winch handle, I removed the sail cover from the mainsail and tossed the cover down the companionway into the cabin.  Removing the sail ties, the sail flopped into the lazy jacks, which kept it under control.  I attached the new wire rope halyard from the new mainsail winch and even on a beam reach, cranked the sail up the mast.  It caught the wind and we accelerated.   Adjusting the genoa and the main sheets, releasing the topping lift; I fiddled and tweaked the sail trim to maximize our speed and comfort of motion.   Angel settled into a 15 degree heel (tilt), with a little weather helm (tiller toward the south wind).  Literally, the wind blew with a 5 – 15 knot wind speed from the south, clocking westward over the next 12 hours.  I did not adjust the sails, and only small tiller movements to check our trim and speed.  This was GLORIOUS sailing.  Bright sun, clear skies, warm wind, easy boat motion all combined to make the start of our passage an idealic treat.  The ease of travel did not foreshadow the coming night’s events.
Just after 10pm, the cloud chasing us from the east caught up.  In less than 2 minutes, the world changed for the Angel and crew.  The wind shifted from southwesterly to north.  The seas grew from 1-2 feet to 6-8 feet and were confused.  For a couple of hours the battle versus the weather raged, with good progress on our route, but uncomfortable and tiring.  Around midnight, I had to reduce sail to better control the direction and speed.  I tried reefing the genoa, but little changed.  I then furled the genoa completely and we proceeded another 2 hours with difficulty, under mainsail alone.  The house battery, which had powered the running lights and navigation instruments since 6pm, showed low voltage, so I started the engine; then went forward to furl the mainsail. 
It was raining hard and the deck was slippery.  During my work, I slipped; grabbing the boom hard with a bear hug.  The solid spruce boom is 5 inches in diameter and 15 feet long…it is hefty.  As I got my grip, a wave rolled Angel to port and I “kissed” the boom.  It did not respond to my affection and split my lip.  No time for self pity.  I got back to the cockpit, applied power and we motored on towards Lucaya, Grand Bahama.  My split lip was not the only injury during my long night in the cockpit.  A winch handle fell from the cockpit seat onto my right big toe.  I slipped in the cockpit, landing hard on my butt, slamming my back  into the seat.  Initially, I thought that I had cracked a rib, but after regaining my breath, I decided that only my back muscles and pride were bruised.
All night long, we motored on through confused seas.  I kept the lights Westend, then Freeport, then Lucaya on my port side.  With the coming dawn, we appeared to still be miles away.  The progress was slow with Angel’s 25 hp (50+ year old) Atomic 4 engine and captain.  My energy low, I was hallucinating, seeing sea buoys and markers in the main shipping channel as we approached Freeport.  By 8am, we were approaching our destination, but the charted buoy and channel eluded us.  Finally, re-examination of the chart and the shoreline, Cat spotted the Bell Channel, through the binoculars.  As we moved closer, the path was clear.  We contacted a marina on the VHF radio, received directions and proceeded to tie up at the dock.  Fortunately, the marina office, customs office, showers and bathrooms are all in the same building at the head of the dock.  This area also is the main shopping and restaurant district for Lucaya, only a few steps from our slip.  I went in and registered for the slip, while Cat filled out our custom forms.  We had to re-fill out the forms (they need two copies) and received our cruising permit, fishing license and permission to take down our yellow (Q) quarantine flag, replacing it with our Bahamian courtesy pennant.  
We were exhausted, both mentally and physically.  A great lunch was enjoyed at AGAVE (Bahamian/Mexican) restaurant.  Cat’s shrimp quesadilla was so huge, that we could not finish it.  My fish tacos were fresh and delicious.  We tried to walk around, but the call to sleep could not be ignored.  We returned to the boat for a well deserved nap.  After 2 hours of sleep, we rose, still groggy and sore from our all nighter.  Cathy  prepared pasta with Prego + (must maligned) canned hamburger.  It was delicious.  Sated, we tried watching a movie, but after half; we were both sleeping and we went to bed.  Exploring can wait until tomorrow.
Jim & Cathy

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